NEWA JEWELLERY

Communities across the world have groomed up to have their own distinctive culture, customs, food and costumes. But at the first sight the one thing that differentiates one community from the other is their appearance, facial or costumes. And an important part of any costumes are its jewellery worn in different parts of the body from head to toe.

Our Newar community also has a rich tradition of using some beautiful and amazing jewellery. With the passing of times usage of some or most may have been decreased but nevertheless the importance of them as part of our culture can never be overlooked.

This article tries to collect information on our various jewelleries that give us the distinct look and also hoping to revive the love in our hearts for them.

Lunswan: This is probably the most attractive Newar jewellery shaped like a circular disk worn at centre of head. The pattern consists of flowers with three to five birds or peacocks which are attached to the disk with the help of spring.  The spring give the impression of the birds dancing everytime the wearer moves her head. Sometimes it has a quite big image of Lord Ganesh on the center made of coral with superb designs. It is usually used only by the bride on the wedding or during festivals and by the groom's mother at wedding, when she goes to bride's home to bring the bride to her new home. Some exceptions to its use is by the lady of honor in grand pujas. It is either made of gold or is gold-plated A normal Lunswan is about 15 to 20 cm in diameter, sometimes even up to 30 and about 100g in weight.

Jun (Moon) Clip: This is a handmade traditional hair jewellery used as a hair clip. It is shaped like half moon and one must say is inspired by nature with the prints of flower, birds and animals on it. The main frame is made of silver and then it is covered with gold foil. It requires quite a skill to make this clip. It is very much affordable and looks amazing on the hair adding an appeal and goes along well with any outfit.

Kilip: "Kilip" as the name suggests is worn at the back of the head. The word probably came from the english word 'clip'. It is a delicately designed oval shaped gold hair ornament with a cluster of flowers motifs and usually a peacock or moon-shape on the top. It is used as a hair clip on the back of the head. The back of the Kilip is made of silver with a lock on it. People in the hill area use Kilip in pairs.

Nyapu shikha: It is a pair of sets of five or seven chains. Each set is attached to a point on the hair on both sides of the head. The five chains attached to interconnecting chains create a fan shape. Each main chain ends in a pendant. It is another elaborate piece worn on the head. Nyapu Shikha is worn by the bride but can also be worn on other occasions.


















Tuki: Newar women wear sets of Tuki, rows of heavy double studs earring. Most of the Tuki’s are plain but some are made of floral designs as well. Tuki is double studs jwelry inserted in the helix of ear. These are worn by elder women after their ritual procession called Janku. Most of tuki are plain in design but some are in floral design.

Makansi: This is an earring usually made of silver or gold and specially worn with Haku patasi. The earrings are u-shaped.

 

Tayo: One of the largest Newar ethnic jewellery Tayo is a huge necklace worn by brides, and women as well as deities like Lokeswors, Yoginis, Dipankers and Kumaris on special occasions. It has high symbolic significance and religious values. It is believed that the two pointed corners of the pendent signifies the Kathmandu Valley. The upper surface represents its directions. It is said that in ancient times this hollow pendent carried good luck charm. It has a center jewel under the hood of the heads of snake which represents the Swayambhu Stupa of the Kathmandu valley. It’s basically made of gold but brass is also used sometimes.

Teekma: It is a necklace with a number of four-sided thin metal plates that are sewn onto a broad red cloth (cotton or velvet) collar with patterns of flowers or peacocks or leaf pattern. These plates may be made of gold or gold plated copper. A remarkable element of this necklace is a row of teardrop-shaped glass beads which is sewn on the edges of the cloth collar. Teekma is mostly used during wedding ceremonies or in traditional dances.

Jantar (Amulet): The history of this gold ornament dates back to 19th century. It has the print of fish, butterfly, kalash which all represents good luck and it is worn to ward of evils and to bring good fortune. It can also be found made with plain prints on it or can be decorated with Nawa Ratnas, the nine types of colored stones.

Ghau: This is originally a Tibetan traditional jewellery and has been adopted in newar culture through Buddhist newar women from the hilly region, who wear them. It is basically an amulet box pendent decorated with precious stones. The box is attached to coral beads. It is a symbolic jewellery which is associated with the Mahayana Buddhism. The stones at the corners and at the centre implies the Pancha-Buddhas of Swayambhu Stupa, like that of a Tayo.

 




Pyakhan Angoo: This is a finger ring. In Nepal Bhasa the word ‘Pyakhan’ means Dance and 'Angoo' means Ring. And hence, usually the dancers of the traditional dances wear this during their performances. It is also worn by a girl during Ihi and Baray and also during wedding. It is somewhat oval shaped with no motifs and is made of silver. It is usually worn in pairs in the index fingers.

 


Bhimpuma: It is a simple necklace made of coral beads.

  












Kalli: This is worn around the ankles and is typically made of silver and is u-shaped.

Company Shikha or Asharfi Maa:  It is a necklace made of coins.

Baha Shikha Maa: It is a chain of interlocked circular rings.

Tutibaggi: It is a pair of anklets which is put on the feet of a bride by her father-in-law at the time when the wedding is over and the bride is ready to leave her home. This is the first and last time that a father-in-law touches the bride's feet. It is flat and is usually plain.

 

Asharfiya Angoo: This is a ring with a coin on top.

Heena Angoo: This is a ring with layers of rings. Its usually made with one single long metal rounded around.

Patachin Shikha: One of the frequently worn ornament is a simple gold necklace.

Kallya: This is a special bangle because this is the one sent to the bride from the groom's family a couple days before the wedding. Putting it on signifies the finalization of the wedding.

Natubhatuca or Kakica: This is a comb gifted to the bride by her family alongwith a porcupine quill, and several other things. After the marriage, these objects are used to ritually comb the bride's hair and signifies her position as a married woman.

There are many more jewelleries which are used in our community. It was not possible to include each and every one of them in this article due to lack of proper information. However, during the process of writing this article it amazes and upsets me both that though our culture is so rich with so many beautiful ornaments, their usage is diminishing day by day. Ornaments are an indispensable part of a women’s daily life. She does not wear them to follow any tradition but the nature has itself gifted that love in her heart. I am sure with this love in our hearts we can revive and bring to life as many of them.